Just found this thread! I went through this last year when I snagged my R6 II, and man, I tried so hard to be cheap with my old gear... it was basically a disaster lol. I thought I could get away with my old DSLR batteries, but the mirrorless tech is sooo picky about power if you want that full 12fps or 40fps burst. Here is what I noticed while comparing my options:
* Canon Control Ring Mount Adapter EF-EOS R vs Canon Mount Adapter EF-EOS R: The control ring is highkey cool for changing ISO on the fly, but it's double the price. Honestly, the basic one works just as well if you're watching your budget, tho the ring is a nice luxury.
* ProGrade Digital 128GB SDXC UHS-II V60 vs SanDisk 128GB Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-II V90: V90 is awesome for heavy video, but V60 is reallyyy the sweet spot for most photo stuff cuz it's way cheaper and still clears the buffer fast enough. I eventually realized that the Canon LP-E6NH Lithium-Ion Battery is the only way to get that green H+ icon for max speed. Third-party ones just dont cut it for technical performance. Good luck!! 👍

Ok so, honestly, the R6 II is a total beast but you gotta feed it right. Coming from DSLRs, the biggest shock is the power draw... mirrorless EVFs basically eat juice for breakfast because they're constantly refreshing. To hit the maximum 40fps electronic burst, you definately need the Canon LP-E6NH Lithium-Ion Battery. Without that specific model, the camera actually throttles your drive speed iirc, so the old batteries just wont cut it for action. For storage, dont blow ur budget on V90s unless ur doing heavy 6K video. A Lexar Professional 1667x 128GB SDXC UHS-II V60 is the sweet spot for value; it handles the R6 II buffer perfectly. Lastly, grab a ULBTER R6 Mark II Screen Protector. These touchscreens scratch way easier than old DSLR glass, so for $10, it's cheap insurance. Those are my top three essentials that wont break the bank. cheers! 👍

> To hit the maximum 40fps electronic burst, you definately need the Canon LP-E6NH... Tbh, while the OEM batteries are the gold standard for burst consistency, the market has finally caught up with some solid high-spec alternatives. If you're doing a brand comparison, the SmallRig LP-E6NH USB-C Rechargeable Camera Battery is currently winning the technical benchmarks for travel kits. It allows direct USB-C charging into the battery itself, which is a huge efficiency gain over the standard Canon cradle system. Quick tip: For storage, if you want better thermals and consistency than the Lexar units, look at the ProGrade Digital SDXC UHS-II V60 Gold Card. Market data suggests ProGrade maintains its minimum sustained write speed much better during long bursts compared to the consumer-grade Lexar 1667x. Also, look into a SmallRig L-Bracket for Canon EOS R6 Mark II. Beyond just protection, it realy helps with the ergonomics since mirrorless bodies are slightly shorter than your old DSLRs. Basically, you want that extra grip for your pinky finger when using heavier RF glass. iirc, it makes a world of difference for all-day shoots.

Totally agree with the points about the power draw, it is such a huge adjustment from the old DSLR days. One thing I have realized the hard way with these RF bodies is how much more often you have to think about maintenance because the sensor is just right there, you know? Since the R6 II has that option to close the shutter when the power is off, it helps a bit, but these mirrorless sensors are still total dust magnets compared to what I am used to. I have always been a DIY enthusiast, but I am honestly a bit nervous about cleaning this one myself. I have heard some scary stories about people scratching the coatings on these newer sensors while trying to save a few bucks on a pro service. If you are going to try to clean it yourself, you really have to watch out for:

• Only using specific mirrorless swabs that fit the sensor size
• Making sure your battery is totally full so the shutter does not accidentally close
• Avoiding those cheap generic air blowers that can spit out debris Does anyone else feel a bit paranoid about touching the sensor? Tbh, I am still wondering if the risk of a DIY mistake is actually worth it or if I should just stick to the professional service route instead.

Lol I was literally about to post the same thing. Glad someone else brought it up.

In my experience, my old gear basically held me back. I noticed my burst mode was sooo slow until I swapped to the newer battery style—it literally changed everything. Here is what I learned: - The faster v90 cards I got help the buffer
- Newer batteries are a must for speed
- Simple screen protectors for safety Honestly, the control ring is cool, but idk if it’s a 'must'. Do you shoot video? gl!

^ This. Also, something I noticed after switching is how much easier life is when you embrace the USB-C port on the R6 II. I was so used to taking batteries out to charge them, but being able to top off the juice while the camera is in my bag has been a game changer for me. I'm really satisfied with my setup now. Here are my top three essentials for the RF life:

• Anker 737 Power Bank PowerCore 24K
• This is huge because it has enough PD output to actually charge the camera. Some cheaper ones dont work.
• Giottos Rocket Air Blaster Large
• Seriously, dont touch the sensor. I use this every time I swap lenses and it keeps things spotless without needing a wet clean.
• ProGrade Digital SD/microSD UHS-II Dual-Slot Card Reader
• I used to use a cheap generic reader and it was such a bottleneck. This one moves files fast so I can get back to editing sooner. Honestly, just having a solid way to keep the power up and the glass clean makes the whole experience way more fun. Enjoy that new rig!

Ok adding this to my list of things to try. Thanks for the tip!