Hey everyone! I recently made the jump to the Canon mirrorless system with an R6 Mark II, and while I’m absolutely loving the performance, the battery life is definitely a step down from my old 5D. I’m finding that on a long day of shooting, I’m burning through my two OEM batteries way faster than I expected, especially when using the electronic shutter or shooting 4K video.
I’ve been looking at picking up a few more spares, but those official Canon LP-E6NH packs are nearly $80 a pop! I’m trying to figure out if the name-brand price tag is actually worth it for the RF mount, or if I should go with something like Wasabi Power, Neewer, or SmallRig. My main concern is whether third-party options still support the high-speed continuous shooting (the green 'H+' icon) and if the camera still reads the battery health and shutter count correctly. I’ve heard some brands can cause error messages or simply won't charge in-camera via USB-C.
Does anyone have long-term experience with specific third-party brands for the R5 or R6 series? I'm looking for that 'sweet spot' where I'm not overpaying for the logo but also not risking a bricked camera. Which spare batteries do you think offer the best overall value for the RF system right now?
oh man, I feel u on the battery life transition. Going from the 5D's "lasts forever" vibe to the R6 Mark II is basically a shock to the system. I went through the exact same thing when I switched! So, here is the deal: the RF mount is super picky about voltage. To get that sweet green H+ icon for max burst speed, the camera needs a high-performance battery that can handle the draw. A lot of older 3rd party stuff just doesnt talk to the camera's processor correctly, so you end up stuck in a slower drive mode even if the battery is full. I mean, it's frustrating when you're tryna capture action and the camera just... slows down. Over the years, I've tried many different brands, and while I used to use Wasabi Power LP-E6NH Battery (2250mAh) packs, they've been hit or miss lately with the newer Canon firmware. In my experience, if you wanna save money without losing the H+ performance, you gotta look at the ones with the built-in USB-C ports. I've been running the SmallRig LP-E6NH USB-C Rechargeable Camera Battery (2400mAh) for about a year now. Seriously, these things are a game changer cuz you can charge them with a phone cable right in your bag! Plus, the camera recognizes them as NH packs, so you get the full frame rate and the battery health info actually shows up in the menu. Another solid pick is the Neewer LP-E6NH Replacement Battery with USB-C Charging Port (2400mAh). It's basically the same tech as the SmallRig ones and holds a charge just as well as the official Canon LP-E6NH Lithium-Ion Battery (2130mAh) in my testing. Just a heads up tho, some ultra-cheap ones might still give you that "communication error" pop-up. Stick to the NH versions from the bigger names and youll be fine. GL! 👍
yo, honestly i feel u on that battery drain! coming back to this - i started using the SmallRig LP-E6NH USB-C Rechargeable Camera Battery and they’re amazing!! here’s why they’re highkey the best value:
- supports that green H+ icon for fast mechanical shooting!
- charge ‘em directly via usb-c... no bulky dock needed!!
- camera reads the health and shutter count perfectly literally saved me a ton compared to oem packs!! gl 👍
Following this thread
Gonna try this over the weekend. Will report back if it works!
Great info, saved!
Building on the earlier suggestion about the picky voltage, honestly its ridiculous how much Canon overcharges for what is basically a standard lithium cell with a proprietary chip. I have looked at the discharge data for so many of these and unfortunately the voltage sag is just pathetic across the board. It drives me crazy that we spend thousands on a body like the R6II only to be held hostage by eighty dollar batteries just to get the advertised frame rates. Its such a scam how:
Exactly what I was thinking
Yep been there done that. Can confirm everything said above is spot on.
^ This. Also, I have been super satisfied with how the latest decoded chips are handling the R6 II's power handshake. It used to be a total crapshoot with the older RF bodies, but the newer aftermarket packs seem to keep that H+ green icon way more consistently now. A few things to keep in mind for performance: