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Which HDMI cable is best for Canon R5 Mark II output?

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I’m finally upgrading to the Canon R5 Mark II and want to ensure I’m getting the best video output possible. Since it has a full-size HDMI port, I’m looking for a reliable cable that can handle 8K RAW or 4K 120p without signal drops. Does anyone have a specific brand or high-speed certified cable they recommend for external recording?


8 Answers
20

Sooo, I've been shooting with the R5 II lately and that full-size HDMI is honestly amazing!! To give you the best advice, what recorder are you actually planning to hook up? Also, how long of a cable do you need?? High bitrates like 8K RAW get really finicky if the cable is too long, so knowing your rig setup would help a ton! gl


8

Can confirm


7

Ok so, for the R5 II, you basically gotta look for Ultra High Speed HDMI (Version 2.1) cables to actually handle that 48Gbps bandwidth needed for 8K RAW or 4K 120p. Honestly, I've had issues with some 'premium' cables just dropping frames mid-shoot which is literally the worst... unfortunately, even some expensive ones aren't as good as expected because they aren't properly shielded for high bitrates.

In my experience, you should definitely go with the Kondor Blue Braided HDMI 2.1 High Speed 48Gbps 8K Cable—their stuff is super rugged and built for rigs. Another solid pro option is the Atomos Shogun Connect HDMI 2.1 8K RAW Cable. If you're on a tighter budget but still need that certified reliability, I've used the Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable and it hasn't let me down yet. Just make sure you keep the length under 6ft if you can, cuz signal degradation is highkey real at those 8K frequencies!! gl with the new camera!


7

Interested in this too


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> I’m looking for a reliable cable that can handle 8K RAW or 4K 120p without signal drops.

So basically, I've done a ton of market research on this because I was also worried about those 48Gbps requirements. Honestly, you gotta compare the high-end video brands vs. the generic tech ones. While some people swear by the expensive cinema-grade cables, I've found that mid-range certified options like those from Cable Matters or Monoprice are actually just as reliable for a fraction of the price. If you want that extra peace of mind for 8K RAW, definitely look for the holographic "Ultra High Speed" sticker on the box. I'm super satisfied with my setup and haven't seen a single drop yet. Hope that helps!


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I totally agree that you dont need to spend a fortune to get good results - I have been researching the tech specs since I got my R5 II and honestly, some of the pro brands feel like they just have a MASSIVE markup. I am trying to save my money for more CFexpress cards instead lol. Here is what I have noticed from using some cheaper 2.1 cables over the last few months: - I have been using the Ugreen 8K HDMI 2.1 Cable and it is pretty great for the price. It has held up well to being plugged and unplugged constantly, which is where I usually see the cheap ones fail.
- Check the AWG rating on the listing! I am still a bit of a beginner with the electrical side, but I read that lower AWG numbers (like 28AWG) usually mean thicker copper. This basically helps the signal stay stable for 8K RAW so it does not get finicky after a few months of use.
- Does anyone know if the connector housing size matters? I noticed some budget cables have really FAT plastic ends that almost block the other ports on the camera. Definitely scan the holographic sticker with the HDMI app too - it is the only way to be SURE it actually hits that 48Gbps.


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Just catching up on this thread and ngl, while everyone is focusing on the specs and brands, I kinda disagree that the cable itself is the main culprit for most people. I've been shooting with the R series for years now and honestly, I think the physical stress on the port is usually what kills the signal. IIRC, even a cheaper certified cable works fine if it's not being yanked around. Not 100% sure if the R5 II port is reinforced better than the older ones, but someone told me that most signal drops are actually just micro-movements in the socket. Personally, I'd worry more about getting a solid cage with a cable clamp rather than overthinking the brand of the wire. Just my two cents tho, might be wrong about the 8K requirements specifically...


1

Nice, didn't know that


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