yo, stumbled upon this discussion and i feel u on the kit overhaul. i mean, the RF system is incredible but it lowkey drains the wallet lol. since youre coming from DSLRs, the biggest shock is gonna be that battery life for sure... but yeah, here's what i recommend from a more practical, cost-conscious perspective: * **The "Sweet Spot" Memory Card:** ProGrade Digital SDXC UHS-II V60 Gold 128GB. honestly, v90 cards are often overkill unless youre shooting 8k or super high-bitrate video. these gold ones are rock solid, super reliable, and half the price of the top-tier SanDisks. i've used them for years and never had a failure.
* **Screen Protection:** seriously, dont skip this. i use the ULBTER Tempered Glass Screen Protector for Canon EOS R6 on all my bodies. it costs almost nothing and basically saves ur resale value when you eventually upgrade. i've seen way too many scratched R-series screens.
* **External Power:** since the official batteries are pricey (as mentioned before), i suggest getting a PD-capable power bank. i use the Anker 737 Power Bank (PowerCore 24K) and it’s a lifesaver. you can charge the camera via USB-C during breaks or even power it while shooting if ur model supports it. anyway, my biggest tip is to not rush into buying everything at once. start with a good card and protection, then see what ur shooting style actually demands. ngl, those mirrorless sensors are dust magnets too, so maybe grab a Giottos AA1900 Rocket Air Blower if you dont have one already. gl with the new setup! 👍

I would suggest looking at memory cards first cuz speed really matters. 1. SanDisk Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-II 128GB V90: Super fast 300MB/s specs but honestly really expensive.
2. Lexar Professional 1667x SDXC UHS-II 128GB V60: Cheaper, tho might be too slow for high-res video. I'd be careful and go V90 if ur doing 4K... it basically prevents buffer issues. gl!

Honestly, I learned the hard way that mirrorless bodies are power-hungry. I tried generic spares, but they unfortunately limited my burst rates—definitely not as good as expected. You gotta stick with the official Canon LP-E6NH Lithium-Ion Battery for full speed. Also, I use the SmallRig Black Mamba Camera Cage for Canon EOS R5/R6 for video cuz the body feels SO small for my hands. Lesson learned: dont skimp on power!

@Reply #4 - good point! Honestly though, the whole RF transition has been kinda disappointing with how much extra junk you have to buy just to get it working like a DSLR. Everyone has covered the basics pretty well:

• Overpriced high-speed cards
• Batteries that drain if you even look at them wrong
• Adapters that make your sleek mirrorless look like a Frankenstein monster I was so frustrated with the gear rabbit hole last month that I almost sold everything. I actually ended up taking my old 70s film camera on a road trip to the mountains instead. My car actually started making this horrible grinding noise near the summit, and I spent four hours waiting for a tow truck in the freezing rain. The driver was this super weird guy who insisted on telling me his entire life story about his prize-winning ferrets. I didnt get a single decent photo because my hands were too cold to even hold the advance lever. Anyway lol sorry kinda went off topic there. Good luck with the overhaul tho!

Coming back to this, I think the biggest game-changer for my RF setup wasn't actually the native glass, but how I handled my old EF lenses. I started with the basic adapter too, but then I did a deep dive into the technical advantages of the specialized ones. It's honestly a huge market now and the research took me forever. Here is how I see the top options for the EF-RF transition based on my own trial and error: - Canon Control Ring Mount Adapter EF-EOS R: This is basically essential if you wanna get the true 'RF experience' with old glass. Having that extra dial for ISO or exposure compensation is huge. The build quality is OEM standard, so the weather sealing is actually reliable, which is a big plus for me.
- Meike MK-EFTR-C Drop-in Filter Mount Adapter: I looked into this as a cheaper alternative to the Canon drop-in version. It’s super clever because you can swap ND filters or polarizers right into the adapter. Technically, it saves you from buying huge 82mm filters for every lens, though the fitment can feel a tiny bit 'looser' than the Canon ones in my experience.
- Viltrox EF-R2 Control Ring Mount Adapter: This is the budget brand comparison. It's much cheaper than the Canon version, but I've seen some technical reports about firmware glitches with certain third-party EF lenses, so I was kinda hesitant to rely on it for pro work. I ended up sticking with the official Control Ring one and it totally changed how I shoot. It makes those old EF primes feel like modern native lenses!

Saw this earlier but just getting a chance to reply now. Honestly, I totally feel the pain on the mirrorless transition tax... it is so annoying how much extra junk you end up needing just to make the ergonomics feel right again after years of DSLR muscle memory. I was pretty frustrated at first, but once I dialed in my kit, I have been very satisfied with how it handles. If you want to focus on the handling side of things, here is what has worked well for me without breaking the bank:

• Quick Release: I switched all my plates to the Ulanzi Falcam F38 Quick Release System. It makes moving from a tripod to a gimbal or strap way faster than the old screw-in plates.
• Wrist Support: For a lighter setup, the Peak Design Cuff Camera Wrist Strap is basically essential. It lets you drop the camera if you need to use your hands without it hitting the pavement.
• DIY Protection: Instead of pricey skins, I just use a bit of ProTapes Pro Gaffer Tape 1 inch x 12 Yards on the high-wear areas like the bottom plate.
• Thumb Grip: If you find the body a bit cramped, the JJC Thumbs Up Grip for Canon EOS R helps with stability when shooting one-handed. Its a bit of a rabbit hole but once you get these small things sorted, the RF system really shines.