> I’m looking for reliable spares from brands like Wasabi or Neewer Respectfully, I'd consider another option. In my experience, Neewer and Wasabi cells lose H+ support way too fast. I've had much better luck with the BM Premium 2-Pack LP-E6NH High Capacity 2650mAh Batteries. They actually show accurate levels and keep that green H+ icon active on my R6 for a fraction of the OEM cost. Basically a steal for spares tho!! gl

In my experience, third-party batteries often fail to support the R6's H+ burst mode. Honestly, I’d suggest the $40 SmallRig LP-E6NH USB-C Rechargeable Camera Battery 2400mAh because it maintains performance and shows accurate levels. GL!!

Regarding what #1 said about "In my experience, third-party batteries often fail to..." - honestly they hit the nail on the head. I've been shooting with Canon gear for over a decade now and the R6 is definitely the most picky body when it comes to power delivery. The reason most cheap ones fail is basically because the internal resistance is too high, so the voltage drops the second you try to fire off a burst. The camera detects that dip and immediately throttles your frame rate to save the circuit. I switched over to using K&F Concept LP-E6NH 2250mAh Battery with USB-C for my backups a few months ago and they've been solid. They actually maintain the green H+ icon for quite a while, which is rare for non-Canon cells. Over the years I've learned that you really get what you pay for with the chips inside these things. These specific ones have the right handshake to trick the camera into thinking its an OEM cell. Just keep an eye on them after a year or so tho... even the best third-party ones tend to degrade a bit faster than the official Canon LP-E6NH Lithium-Ion Battery. Stick with brands that focus on the NH spec specifically and you'll avoid that annoying slow-down. Reach out if you need help finding where to buy em.

tbh in my experience, the Watson LP-E6NH Li-Ion Battery Pack (2250mAh) is basically the only cell ive used that actually maintains green H+ burst mode on the R6 reliably!!

Just saw this and I'm in a similar boat tbh. I'm pretty new to this whole RF system and everything feels so expensive. Quick question though, are you mostly shooting video or just stills? I’ve heard that the power draw is way different for both, so that might change which brands actually hold up for you. Anyway, I've been doing a ton of research because I'm super paranoid about damaging my camera. The one I got recently seemed okay at first, but then I started reading about how some of these third-party companies don't have the same safety chips as the official ones. It’s honestly so confusing because there are like fifty different brands that all look the same but have totally different price points. I've been trying to compare the different manufacturing standards, but yeah, it's a lot to take in for a beginner. I’m just worried about the battery swelling inside the compartment or something, so I’ve been being really careful with my current setup.

> I’m looking for reliable spares from brands like Wasabi or Neewer, but I’m worried about losing high-speed burst mode functionality. ngl I have this exact same issue and it is driving me crazy. I have been dealing with this for like three months now with my R6 and I still havent found a third-party cell that actually keeps the high-speed burst icon green for more than a few minutes. its basically impossible to find a straight answer anywhere because everyone says something different but then the performance just drops off immediately for me too...

Did this last week, worked perfectly

> I’m looking for reliable spares from brands like Wasabi or Neewer, but I’m worried about losing high-speed burst mode functionality. Ngl your concern is totally valid. I remember using some generic cells a while back and one of them actually swelled up inside the battery compartment. I had to use a pair of tweezers to get it out... not something I ever want to do again. Comparing the cheap stuff to the high-end stuff, the main difference is usually the internal controller and how it handles heat. The R6 is pretty demanding when it comes to voltage, so if the battery isnt perfectly stable, the camera just disables that green H+ icon to protect itself. My biggest warning would be to avoid those ultra-cheap bundles that come with a free charger. They usually lack the proper thermal sensors that communicate with the cameras processor. I’ve seen cases where the battery level stays at 80% and then the camera just cuts to black because the cell couldnt handle the draw. Sometimes saving a bit of cash isnt worth the risk of a failure during a shoot... just make sure whatever you get has a proven track record for its internal protection circuits.