Re: "Saw your post and honestly, you need to..." - totally agree about the nits thing. unfortunately i had issues with some expensive rigs losing signal mid-shoot which is just the worst. spent way too much on gear that felt flimsy. if you want to save some cash, i tried the Feelworld LUT6 6 Inch 2600nit Ultra Bright Monitor and while the fan is kinda loud, it beats squinting. its super bright but feels a bit like cheap plastic tbh. another one is the Osee G7 7 Inch 3000nits Ultra Bright Monitor. its way bigger and very bright, but it eats batteries like crazy... like seriously fast. i dont love how heavy it makes the camera either. still, for under your 600 budget you could get the monitor and extra batteries without breaking the bank. just watch those ports tho, they can be a bit loose...

Saw your post and honestly, you need to look at nits first. If youre shooting in Seattle sun, 1000 nits wont cut it. Ive been using the Portkeys LH5P II 2200 Nit 5.5 Inch Monitor for a while now and it basically solves the visibility issue. It puts out 2200 nits which is bright enough that you dont even really need a sunhood most of the time. A few reasons why this works for the R6 II:

• 2200 nits is enough to actually see focus peaking in midday sun.
• Bluetooth control lets you change settings on your Canon without fumbling for the tiny buttons.
• It stays relatively cool even when the brightness is cranked. Regarding the connection dropping, the weight of the cable is usually what kills the signal. I switched to a Zilr Hyper Thin 4K HDMI Cable 45cm and it stopped the flickering because the cable is too light to put pressure on the port. Thick cables act like a lever and just pry the connection loose whenever you move. Keeping it light is basically the secret to a stable feed.

Ugh, I totally feel you on that R6 II screen. In my experience, its basically a mirror when the sun hits it. I've tried many setups over the years, and for a $600 budget, you have two solid paths depending on if you want to record externally or just see what youre doing. If you want the absolute best for midday sun, honestly go for the Portkeys LH5P II 5.5 inch 2200nit Touchscreen Monitor. It is insanely bright. Like, squint-at-the-monitor-because-its-too-bright bright. Plus it lets you control the R6 II settings through the screen which is a total game changer for real. For a more traditional setup, the Atomos Ninja 5.2 inch 4K HDMI Recording Monitor is the standard choice. It isnt quite as bright as the Portkeys (1000 nits vs 2200), but the interface is way easier to navigate when youre in a rush. Since you mentioned the cable connection issue, heres what I've learned from my years of trial and error:

• Invest in a Kondor Blue Braided High Speed HDMI to Micro HDMI Cable. These are way more durable than the cheap rubber ones.
• You really need a cage like the SmallRig Camera Cage for Canon EOS R6 Mark II that comes with a cable clamp. That clamp is the only thing that actually stops the signal from dropping if you bump the wire.
• Stock up on Sony NPF-970 Rechargeable Lithium-Ion Battery packs because these bright screens eat through juice fast. Ngl, once you switch to a real monitor, you'll wonder how you ever shot without one. Good luck with the Seattle gig, hit me up if you need more help with the settings!

Huh interesting. I had no idea. The more you know I guess 🤷

Can confirm this works. Did the same thing on mine and its been solid ever since.