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What are the must-have ND filters for Canon RF lenses?

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I've recently fully committed to the Canon RF system with the 24-70mm f/2.8L and 15-35mm f/2.8L, but I’m struggling to decide on a solid ND filter setup. Since these lenses share an 82mm thread, I'm torn between getting a high-quality variable ND or a set of fixed ones (like a 6-stop and 10-stop) for long exposures. I’ve also heard some buzz about the EF-EOS R drop-in filter adapter, but I'm worried about color shifts on this specific glass. I really want to avoid vignetting at the wide end. What density levels and brands are you all finding essential for your RF kit? Do you prefer screw-ons or a square system for landscape work?


8 Answers
20

Sooo I went through this last year when I finally upgraded my kit! Honestly, I spent forever researching different brands because I was so worried about the colors looking weird on my expensive glass... it's a huge struggle. I basically spent weeks looking at market data and comparing how the high-end stuff stacks up against the cheaper options. I eventually went with a high-quality magnetic set for my wide-angle lens, and seriously, it was a game changer for my landscape work! I remember being sooo nervous about vignetting at 15mm, but choosing a super slim system really saved me. I've noticed over the years that some big name brands definitely have a bit of a color cast, while others are way more neutral, so I ended up sticking with the more neutral ones even though they cost a bit more. It's definitely been a learning curve for me since I'm still kinda figuring out which densities I like best for daytime long exposures tho. Just sharing my journey, gl!! 👍


18

> I’m struggling to decide on a solid ND filter setup.

Sooo I went through this same struggle last year when I got my RF glass. Honestly, I initially tried to save money with a cheap variable ND, but the X-pattern on the Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L IS USM was literally unusable at 15mm. I eventually switched to a K&F Concept 82mm Nano-X Fixed ND1000 for my long exposures. It's way more budget-friendly than square systems and fits both lenses perfectly without breaking the bank!!

Quick tip: Stick to slim-profile screw-ons like the Hoya 82mm Variable ND II to avoid that annoying vignette at the wide end.


6

Sooo I went through this exact same struggle last year when I picked up the Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L IS USM and the Canon RF 24-70mm f/2.8L IS USM. Honestly, I spent weeks obsessing over the vignetting issue because that 15mm is no joke—it'll catch the edge of a thick filter frame in a heartbeat.

I actually started with a high-end variable ND, the PolarPro 82mm Peter McKinnon Edition II Variable ND 2-5 Stop, cuz I thought it would be easier for video. It's a great piece of glass, but basically I found it wasn't enough for those super smooth daytime long exposures you want in landscape work. Plus, when you push variables too far on a lens that wide, you get that weird "X" pattern... it's just physics, I guess.

Eventually, I caved and tried a square setup with the NiSi V7 100mm Filter System Holder Kit and some NiSi 100x100mm Nano IR Neutral Density Filter ND1000 10-Stop glass. Honestly, it was a game changer for the 15-35mm. It looks bulky, but you can stack a 6-stop and a 10-stop without any dark corners at 15mm, which is pretty much impossible with standard screw-ons.

Quick tip: If you go screw-on, definitely stick to "slim" profiles like the B+W 82mm XS-Pro Digital MRC Nano 810 Solid ND 3.0 Filter to keep that wide angle clear.

Anyway, it really depends on if you're doing quick shots or taking your time with a tripod! What kind of stuff are you usually shooting? Cheers!


5

Honestly, after using that same RF combo for almost two years, I've realized that the "best" filter is the one you actually bother to pull out of your bag lol. I wasted a bunch of money on bulky kits before finding a setup that didn't drive me crazy in the field. If you're worried about vignetting at 15mm but don't wanna lug around a massive 100mm square system, here’s what’s worked for me long-term: - Magnetic is a total game changer for the 82mm thread. I've been using the Freewell Magnetic VND Filter System and it's so much faster for swapping between those two lenses. You just pop them on and off without worrying about cross-threading anything when your hands are cold.
- For serious long exposures, I've had great luck with the Haida M10-HD4429 Red Diamond ND 3.0. I'm not 100% sure if it's the glass or the coating, but the color remains super neutral on my RF glass, which is key since some cheaper ones turn everything weirdly purple.
- Density-wise, I find a 6-stop (ND64) is basically my most used. A 10-stop is cool for middle-of-the-day stuff, but it kinda makes the exposures way too long if the light is already dropping. Basically, just avoid stacking. If you put a magnetic base plus a thick filter, you might see some tiny vignetting at 15mm, but it’s usually gone by 16mm anyway. But yeah, magnetic is definitely the way to go for practical, real-world use!


4

> I’ve also heard some buzz about the EF-EOS R drop-in filter adapter, but I'm worried about color shifts on this specific glass.

Yo, congrats on the new RF glass!! But seriously, I gotta warn u right away—the EF-EOS R drop-in adapter ONLY works for adapting EF lenses to the R bodies. It basically won't fit between your new RF 15-35mm and the camera, so don't waste your money on that setup for this specific kit.

For that 15mm wide end, I'd highkey recommend a square system like the ones from Nisi or Lee. If u try stacking standard 82mm screw-ons at 15mm, the vignetting is gonna be BRUTAL lol. I personally find a 6-stop and a 10-stop are the absolute essentials for landscape work. I tried a variable ND once, but the "X" pattern and color shift on ultra-wides just drove me crazy... honestly stick to fixed glass if ur doing serious long exposures. cheers!


4

Curious about one thing: are you shooting mostly long exposures during the day or focusin on video? Honestly, the safety of your sensor is huge since the RF mount is so shallow. Quick tips:

* Stick to a thin system like Breakthrough Photography X4 Fixed ND 82mm to avoid vignetting at 15mm.
* Avoid cheap variables; the X-pattern will ruin that 15-35mm glass.

Basically, the wider the lens, the riskier thick filters get. Lmk what you're shooting!


4

Honestly, I’ve been super paranoid about the physical fitment on those specific lenses. Like, I mean... have you checked if your lens hood actually still clicks into place with a thicker filter on? I've noticed that some 82mm rings are just a tiny bit too wide, which totally blocks the hood mount on the Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L IS USM. It’s so frustrating!!! Basically, you really need to look at something with a super low profile like the B+W 82mm T-PRO Solid ND 1000x Filter to make sure everything clears. Wait, actually, does the front element on the 15-35mm move forward at all when you’re focusing? I'm always worried a filter might sit too close to the glass, though maybe I'm just being a newbie lol. Tbh, I'd just double-check that the outer diameter of whatever filter you buy doesn't exceed the 82mm thread area too much, or you're gonna be shooting without a hood 24/7. Anyone else ran into that??


2

Same here!


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