> Does it have to be a 2.5mm wired-to-wireless dongle thing To add to the point above: i actually disagree that you have to go fully wired. Unfortunately the T7 is stripped down and doesnt support direct Bluetooth remotes which is a huge bummer. Youre stuck with the 2.5mm port but the Viltrox JY-120 2.4GHz Wireless Shutter Release works for bulb mode. Just pack extra batteries since Yosemite nights are freezing and they wont last long.

> Does it have to be a 2.5mm wired-to-wireless dongle thing or is there a direct Bluetooth option that doesn't suck? Honestly, I might have to disagree with the idea of going wireless at all for something as critical as a Milky Way shoot. I know it sounds a bit old school, but I've been burned way too many times by those radio and Bluetooth triggers when the temperature drops or the signal gets weird. I remember this one night out in the Mojave a few years back. I had this fancy wireless setup that I thought was the best thing ever. I set everything up for a long star trail sequence and went to sit in my truck to stay warm. Halfway through, the receiver battery just quit without any warning. I didnt realize it until I went to pack up and saw I only had like twenty minutes of usable frames. It was gutting, especially since the sky was perfectly clear that night... basically a wasted trip. Since then, I switched back to a simple wired remote for my Canon EOS Rebel T7 and never looked back. The 2.5mm jack is way more reliable because there is no pairing to worry about and no extra batteries to die in the cold. For bulb mode especially, having a physical sliding lock on the shutter button is just safer. Bluetooth can be super finicky with distance and interference, and when you are out in the middle of nowhere like Yosemite, you really dont want to be troubleshooting a sync issue in the dark with a headlamp. Just my two cents, but a cheap wired intervalometer is basically indestructible compared to those dongles.