Honestly, the 6D II is a beast but that screen is tricky. Over the years, I've found these budget-friendly fixes: 1. Filter: Haida M10 Filter Holder Kit ($100)—it wont vignette ur 16-35mm.
2. L-Bracket: Sunwayfoto PCL-6DII L-Bracket ($50) is basically the ONLY one that lets the screen rotate fully.
3. Remote: Skip the app, it's laggy... grab a Neewer LCD Timer Remote Control N3 for $15. Seriously, these are my field must-haves! 👍

Honestly, skip the app for long exposures—it’s a total battery killer. Grab the Canon BR-E1 Bluetooth Remote instead. For filters, the NiSi V7 100mm Filter Holder Kit is basically the gold standard cuz it includes a built-in CPL that wont vignette on that 16-35mm. Also, maybe check the SmallRig L-Bracket for Canon EOS 6D Mark II 2144, tho screen clearance is always gonna be a struggle on the 6DII!

Saw this earlier but just now responding—congrats on the upgrade!! Basically, when you move to full-frame, every piece of glass in front of your sensor matters. Cheap filters cause refraction and nasty color casts that'll ruin your L-series sharpness, which is why sticking to professional standards is safer for your results long-term. Here's what I recommend for the 6D II: 1. Filter System: Grab the Lee Filters 100mm Foundation Kit and the Lee Filters 100mm System Wide Angle Adapter Ring 77mm. It’s the pro standard for durability; you dont want cheap plastic filters scratching in your bag or ruining your contrast.
2. L-Bracket: Try the ProMediaGear PLCC6DII L-Bracket for Canon 6D Mark II. It’s specifically built to let that articulated screen flip out and rotate without getting snagged, which is a common fail point with generic brackets.
3. Remote: Seriously, skip the app. It’s a total battery killer and way too glitchy for blue hour shots. The Canon RS-80N3 Remote Switch is wired and simple—it literally never fails. Top 3 must-haves? The Lee kit, a solid bracket, and an extra Canon LP-E6N Lithium-Ion Battery because that sensor eats power sooo fast. gl!

Honestly, if you're worried about the 6D II's image quality, you really need to look at the market leaders in high-transmission glass. Basically, you should be comparing systems from **Kase** or **Breakthrough Photography**. From a market research standpoint, these brands have really taken over the professional landscape niche because they use tempered optical glass that avoids the weird color shifts you see in cheaper resin kits. Just get any of their 100mm setups and you're good for wide-angle work without worrying about vignetting. As for the L-bracket, dont bother with generic brands if you want that screen to actually work. I'd highly suggest checking out what **Kirk Photo** or **Really Right Stuff (RRS)** offers. They’re the gold standard for a reason—they actually engineer their plates around the specific hinge points of the camera body. It's a bigger investment, but it's the only way to ensure the articulated screen isn't constantly hitting the bracket when you're trying to frame a vertical shot. And for the remote, yeah, skip the app. It's too unreliable for professional long exposures. Just get a standard wired release from **Canon** or **Vello**. They’re basically fail-proof and dont drain your battery like a Bluetooth connection or Wi-Fi will during those critical blue hour windows.

Honestly, I'm still a bit of a beginner with my 6D II, so I’ve been taking things really slow and being extra cautious with what I add to my bag. I was so worried about spending money on stuff that wouldn't fit that I ended up trying some DIY fixes first. • Like for the L-bracket, I actually just took a basic one and did a bit of self-service by filing down the edge myself. I was scared I’d ruin it, but it actually lets the screen move now! It’s a lot cheaper than the pro-grade options if ur okay with a little home project, right?
• For long shots, I’ve just been using the internal 2-second timer. It feels safer than messing with apps that might fail, but I’m always worried about the camera moving slightly when I press the button.
• If you want a solid brand to start with for filters, I’d say go with Benro. Just get any of their filter sets and you should be good to go without breaking the bank. But yeah, I’m curious if anyone else does the DIY thing or if I should just stop being so cautious and get the professional stuff? I'm always worried I'll buy the wrong thing!

I saw your post yesterday and wanted to offer a few specific recommendations based on my field work with the 6D Mark II. Since you're shooting with the 16-35mm f/4L, you have to be very methodical about your setup to avoid vignetting or blocking that screen.

• Filter System: I would suggest the Benro FH100M2 Master Filter Holder. It features a geared adjustment system for graduated filters that is incredibly precise. Just make sure to use the slim adapter rings to prevent any edge clipping at your widest focal lengths.
• L-Bracket: You might want to consider the Kirk BL-6DII L-Bracket. It is engineered specifically for this body to allow the screen to articulate, though you should still be careful when rotating it to ensure you dont snag the edge.
• Remote: For performance, skip the wireless options and get the Vello ShutterBoss II Remote Switch with Digital Timer. It is much more reliable than the app for blue hour shots where connection drops can ruin a long exposure. My top three essentials would be a dedicated timer remote, a sturdy L-bracket, and a high-volume blower like the Giottos Rocket Air Blaster Large to keep that sensor clean when you're swapping lenses in the wind.

Honestly I have had my 6D II for a few years now and it is such a solid landscape tool but there are a few practical things I wish I knew before I started hiking out into the middle of nowhere with it.

• Watch out for the GPS setting because if you leave it on even when the power switch is off the camera will keep searching for a signal and basically kill your battery overnight so you might show up for sunrise with a dead camera which is the absolute worst feeling ever.
• Make sure you get a tempered glass screen protector for that flip-out screen since it is always exposed or rubbing against your gear and honestly it is way more fragile than the old fixed screens on the older models.
• Dont overspend on the most expensive memory cards because this camera body only supports UHS-I speeds so you are basically just throwing money away if you buy the ultra high speed ones thinking it will make the camera faster.
• Be really careful with the weather sealing because even though it says it is sealed the 16-35mm lens actually needs a front filter to complete the seal according to the manual so keep that in mind if you are shooting near salt spray or rain. Does anyone else find the GPS thing super annoying or is it just me? Also wait no I just remembered that if you ever forget your remote you can just use the 2-second timer mode to avoid the shake anyway so maybe dont stress the remote too much yet since the 6D II has that built in anyway.

Honestly, I've been shooting with the 6D II for years now and the biggest thing I can tell you is to prioritize reliability over fancy features. I've had a few close calls that really changed how I pack my bag.

• Skip the app for anything over a 30-second exposure. I've had it drop the connection right in the middle of a blue hour shot and it basically froze my camera until I pulled the battery. It's just not worth the stress when the light is changing fast and your phone wont sync.
• Be super careful with how much pressure you put on that screen. Most brackets claim to be compatible, but if you have to wiggle the screen even a tiny bit to get it past the metal, you're putting stress on that hinge. I eventually stopped using one altogether because I didnt want to risk a total screen failure in the middle of a trip.
• If you go with a square filter system, make sure the adapter rings are high quality. I once had a cheap aluminum ring seize up on my 16-35mm during a cold morning shoot and I had to use pliers to get it off. Talk about a heart attack... almost ruined the lens threads. Basically, just keep it simple. The more moving parts and connections you have, the more things can go wrong when you're out in the elements.

Can confirm